Car Paint Chip Repair

I spend much of my time working on cars that have paint blobs, usually from those God awful paint pens that dealerships and auto stores sell. In my opinion it’s really a dirty trick as those pens make your car look far and away worse. I admit I’m a little bias and my standards are vastly higher than most, but 95% of the time the car would be better off without a big blob on a chip.
I can almost always fix paint blobs, then properly fill the remaining rock chips. I’ve worked on well over 4,000 cars in Orange County, San Diego, Los Angeles, and Riverside counties, and have gotten very good at it. Especially, since I’m using the Dr.Colorchip paint system.
So, if you’re tempted to buy one of those paint pens, please throw it in the trash and call me instead. I’ll make your car look fantastic, or I’ll walk you through how to do it yourself.
949/463-7690

And I’ll give anyone that gets me an appointment for a demonstration at a car dealership within driving distance, $100 cash. I have a 95% close rate- so I’m not worried about making the money back.

I worked on 3 Ferrarri’s this week. I love those cars. The first had a pretty deep gouge up the front. A pretty good size stone had skipped its way up the hood. I applied the paint in a bead up the side of the paint damage and dragged a glossy business card across it, spilling it into the paint scar. When I use this technique it’s for doing very high end work. It works really well if you really really watch what you’re doing.
Hold the card close to the car, and very lightly pull the paint into the chip. Then you need to wait a few minutes for the Dr.Colorchip paint to dry. Again, this is for high-end work. I wouldn’t normally bother layering Dr.Colorchip Paint – but when you want to make it perfect, and especially for show cars, it helps to add two or three layers. The key is to thin the paint a little more each time you add a layer of paint. Use acetone to do this. If you don’t thin it out a little, you’ll just take out the paint that you’ve added each time you use the SealAct solution. SealAct is the stuff that removes just the excess paint around your chip. It’s part of the Dr.Colorchip process. Anyway I did this several times. While I was waiting for this to dry, I also worked on my customers Bentley, Hummer, two Porsche 911s, and his MBZ 550SL. This was all before noon. At one o’clock I was due to work on another customers two Ferrari 599s. Both of those cars where about to be clear-bra’d. They had road rash around the wheel wells which is easily and quickly fixed. For cars like that I’ll either apply the paint ’shoe polish’ method – dipping the paint bottle over my terry cloth and just rubbing it on the car, waiting, then removing with SealAct. Or I put a big ol’ blob of paint at the start of the rash and pull my rubber squeegie across the paint (and paint chips) then remove the excess when it’s dry.
Once in a while I tease my customers when they see me put big huge blobs of paint on their priceless cars. I tell them I’ll done and start to walk off. I have to be careful – I think I’ve cause a few heart attacks. LOL. The beautiful part of this paint system is the there’s no mistakes. Any paint blobs that I’ve put on the car, are very easily removed. I have to be careful with who I joke around with – regardless, I always leave a car looking awesome. I personally work for two car museums, a lot of the high-end dealerships in Orange County California, and most of the high-end car clubs, like Porsche, Corvette, and other classics.
I’m very good at what I do – on that note, I have a Bachelors in Fine Art, and have been painting since I was a wee lad. I owned a printing company and an advertising agency for many years, so I’m not only a professional, but I know color, and I know what looks good, and am only happy when your car looks great!!!!

Today I fixed the rock chips on my 5,000th car!! And after all the rock chips and scratches I’ve fixed – I still stand back and am amazed how good the car looks. The Dr.Colorchip paint system is far and away the best product out there – and after 5,000 cars, I’ve become really good at it. To celebrate I’m offering 20% off to the next 5 car enthusiasts who have me fix his/her rock chips.
I’ve worked on some of the most valuable cars in California, and some of the most thrashed daily drivers. All of them looked fantastic when I was done with them.
By the way, the most expensive car I’ve worked on was a 1955 Porsche Spyder in original condition.
Call now for an appointment, or order you paint on my website. 949/463-7690. carpaintchiprepair.com

I’m finally writing about the Porsche Parade from earlier this month, which is a testament to how busy I’ve been repairing paint chips on everything from Porsches, Corvettes, Mustangs, from million dollar show cars, to daily drivers. Using the Dr.Colorchip paint system, I’ve become known as the best paint chip repair technician in Orange County, if not California.

We are currently making plans to attend the Pebble Beach event, but if we aren’t there for some reason, don’t hesitate to call for a free consultation, or we can come by and take a look at your car.
We are having a special for any that will be attending Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance. 20% off paint chip repair service – usual prices are between $75 and $200 for an entire car.

I worked on another Porsche Spyder in Orange County yesterday. This one of my favorite cars to do rock chip repair on. It’s the bright silver with lots of metallic flake. I’m not sure what the paint code is off hand – but I know I have it my paint kit.

I like doing that color the most because I’ve learned a few tricks that really impress my customers when they’ve got a lot of rock chips and scratches. Using the Dr.Colorchip paint I put a large blob of paint next to the chip and gentle pull the paint across with a glossy business card – mine work well for this, conveniently enough. So if you pick up one of my cards at a car show in the OC or LA, etc, and it’s got paint smeared around the edges, you’ll know what happened, and I apologize. haha.

Back the work at hand – with a large blob paint next the chip, or scratch, I pull the paint across the chip with a business card. You can do this as many times as it takes to get the paint in the chip, with little or no visible paint around the outside. When the chip is filled, let it dry for a few minutes – and using the Dr.Colorchip solution and a t-shirt cloth rub off everything except what is in the rock chip, or paint chip.

For the best results, I would even go so far as to put some solution on your fingers and gently rub the excess with your fingertips.

The use of tips like these, and the use of the Dr.Colorchip paint system, is why I’m known as the best paint chip repair person in the industry.

I’ve done touch up work from the most common Hyundai, to some of the most valuable cars around.

Most of my work is for dealerships – Mercedes, BMW, Lexus, Ford, Mazda, Porsche, Audi, but I also work for many of the car clubs in Orange County, Los Angeles County, etc., like Porsche, Ferrari, BMW, Mustang, Corvette.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

ps. I’m very excited about the Porsche Parade at the end of June. It’s in Colorado this year. Please come see our booth.

All too often when I arrive to fix a customers rock chips it’s because they hadn’t used a high quality wax to protect there car. Believe or not, it does make a big difference in reflecting rocks, and especially sand, from damaging your finish.

I personally like Meguiar’s products, but there are many others. Aside from that Dr.Colorchip has the best paint chip system on the market and it is now what I use exclusively. It allows you to fill the chips, without trying to dab a blob of paint in a tiny little whole. It’s kinda like putting a square peg in a round hole. Using conventional methods, a blog a paint is much too large to fit in a chip, consequently, you get blobs which are more apparent than the original chip.
Scratches are the most difficult to handle – it takes a bit more finesse, due to the additional surface area, and most scratches are not uniform. Meaning, they might be down to the metal on one end, and shallow enough to buff out of the other. For the shallow areas, I use Meguiar’s ScratchX 2.0. It’s a bit more abrasive than the previous Scratch X so be careful. I use a terry cloth towel to rub out as much as I can. I put a lot of hand force behind it. I’ll use a buffer if I have to, but try to stay away from using it because most of the work I do is on high end show cars. And it’s not worth making it ‘easier’ and risk damaging a beautiful car.
After I buff out what I can – I’ll take some of my Dr.Colorchip paint, which is already mixed per the manufacturers specs, and poor it in a paper cup with a little acetone. I take a very fine tip paint brush. Please go to an craft or art store to get one. It should be about as thick as a sewing needle. I’ll wet it with my tongue to get a nice point and dip it in the paint and draw it across the scratch. The paint should be thick enough just to change the color of the scratch, but not leave enough paint that you can see a bead of paint. If you’ve applied too much. Don’t worry, Wait 10 minutes or so, and take some of the Dr.Colorchip solution and a silk or very smooth cloth and gentle smooth out the extra. You can even put some of the solution on you fingertips and remove some extra paint.
If the scratch is deep enough, you can put a blob of paint length wise, and next too the scratch, and drag a business card across the paint and into the scratch, then take a very silky smooth cloth and some Dr.Colorchip solution to remove all the paint except what is in the scratch.

Please contact me if you have any questions.
results@carpaintchiprepair.com

All too often when I arrive to fix a customers rock chips it’s because they hadn’t used a high quality wax to protect there car. Believe or not, it does make a big difference in reflecting rocks, and especially sand, from damaging your finish.

I personally like Meguiar’s products, but there are many others. Aside from that Dr.Colorchip has the best paint chip system on the market and it is now what I use exclusively. It allows you to fill the chips, without trying to dab a blob of paint in a tiny little whole. It’s kinda like putting a square peg in a round hole. Using conventional methods, a blog a paint is much too large to fit in a chip, consequently, you get blobs which are more apparent than the original chip.
Scratches are the most difficult to handle – it takes a bit more finesse, due to the additional surface area, and most scratches are not uniform. Meaning, they might be down to the metal on one end, and shallow enough to buff out of the other. For the shallow areas, I use Meguiar’s ScratchX 2.0. It’s a bit more abrasive than the previous Scratch X so be careful. I use a terry cloth towel to rub out as much as I can. I put a lot of hand force behind it. I’ll use a buffer if I have to, but try to stay away from using it because most of the work I do is on high end show cars. And it’s not worth making it ‘easier’ and risk damaging a beautiful car.
After I buff out what I can – I’ll take some of my Dr.Colorchip paint, which is already mixed per the manufacturers specs, and poor it in a paper cup with a little acetone. I take a very fine tip paint brush. Please go to an craft or art store to get one. It should be about as thick as a sewing needle. I’ll wet it with my tongue to get a nice point and dip it in the paint and draw it across the scratch. The paint should be thick enough just to change the color of the scratch, but not leave enough paint that you can see a bead of paint. If you’ve applied too much. Don’t worry, Wait 10 minutes or so, and take some of the Dr.Colorchip solution and a silk or very smooth cloth and gentle smooth out the extra. You can even put some of the solution on you fingertips and remove some extra paint.
If the scratch is deep enough, you can put a blob of paint length wise, and next too the scratch, and drag a business card across the paint and into the scratch, then take a very silky smooth cloth and some Dr.Colorchip solution to remove all the paint except what is in the scratch.

Please contact me if you have any questions.
results@carpaintchiprepair.com

I spent another great day fixing rock chips and scratches. Today I worked on 4 Porsches, getting them ready for a car show in a couple of weeks. Then I spent the rest of the day at Crevier BMW making there cars look great. Ever since The Wall Street Journal wrote an article comparing other paint chip systems and found the system I use, Dr. Colorchip to be the best, I’ve been inundated with service calls from all over southern california. I’ve become very well known for fixing rock chips over the past few years. Life is good.

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