Paint chips on the hood


If you have unsightly paint chips on your hood, please don’t buy a paint pen or other touch up method and put blobs of paint on each little paint chips. It’ll look awful.  You’ll go from having little chips in the paint, to bumps on your hood, and that’s if you’re able to put a little dollop of paint on every chip.

There’s a much better method.  You can use the Dr.Colorchip paint system.  It’s what I use.  I have been doing paint chip repair for 10 years now and have tried many different systems and experimented with my own.  Dr.Colorchip is far and away the best method.  That paint is designed to stick in the chips and not the exiting finish.  You can literally smear the paint over the chipped area, wait a few minutes, and then use their special solution to remove the excess paint.  It leaves a fairly smooth surface with all the chips filed instead of just a few that you have blobbed paint in.

I apply the paint using one of two methods, or both.  If the chips are tiny, sand size chips, I’ll apply the paint like you might polish your shoes.  I call it the ‘shoe polish method’.  I know, very creative name.  lol. I’ll hold a clean white t-shirt cloth over the open bottle of paint,a turn it over, so as to put a nice glob of paint on the cloth.  I’ll then, very quickly, smear that over the entire area of chips. You must do this quickly.  It’ll help to add a few drop of acetone to the cloth, and to the bottle of paint.  You can cover a wider area that way.  Keep on repeating this until you fill all the itty bitty chips.  The second method is better for larger chips, about the size of a pencil tip or a little larger.

For the second method I’ll use a rubber squeegee.  I’ll put a big dollop of paint on the edge of the hood, and very quickly with a squeegee pull the paint across the hood and and the chips.  This will fill all of them in – or most of them.

In both methods, wait about 15 minutes, and with a clean white t-shirt cloth, and a little squirt of the solution that comes with the kit, start rubbing away the excess paint.  This will leave the paint in the chips and give you a really nice finished look.

I hope this helps.  I have done well over 30,000 cars in the past ten years.  I have become known as the best paint chip guy in the country.  I just do what makes it look good – but even now, I still stand back and look at a car and say to myself, ‘yea, that looks pretty damn good’.  and a smile at a job well done.

Feel free to send me pics if you’d like my opinion about your car.  I currently work in Southern California.  Orange County.

my email is and my phone number is 949/463-7690.  I don’t answer my phone (too many calls) but you can text me pics), or if you’re in my area, I’d be happy to do the work.



Steve Bode
aka Quinn The Eskimo

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Does your hood and front bumper get lots of paint chips from flying rocks?

Do you want to know how to fix it?


I use a paint system that is designed to stick in the paint chip instead of the existing finish. On a car like the photo shown, I will actually smear the paint on with a cloth or use a rubber squeegee.  I admit I have a little fun with this when I do it at car shows.  I often work on multi million dollar cars, and I’ll just smear paint all over the front of someones car.  I know the excess paint comes off, but I’ll tell my customer that I only said I’d fill the chips.  I’ve gotten in trouble for saying such things.  lol.  People usually know when I’m joking though.

Once I smear the paint on, I’ll wait until I feel its ready.  It’s usually about 15 minutes or less.  I always work outside when I do this, which is a surprise to many.  The paint shouldn’t be tacky, but it’s not overly critical.  I use a very soft t-shirt cloth and have a micro fiber cloth in my other hand, and a bottle of my secret sauce handy.  I’ll put a few drops of the paint solution on the t-shirt cloth and start gently removing the excess paint.  I make sure the cloth is very flat.  I usually fold it over twice, leaving about a 2 inch square of nice flat surface.  Any wrinkles and the edges will dig into the paint too much.  I watch carefully as I remove the excess paint, and don’t dig into the chip too much.  I keep adding a few drips of solution until I wipe off all the excess paint.

A hood like the one shown, will take me about 45 minutes or less; and I’d get the rest of the car done too.  The repairs are permanent.  I use real car paint.  I’ve worked on over 40,000 cars in the 10 years I’ve been doing this.  I work for many car dealerships and am fairly well known in Porsche circles.  I do tech talks at many cars shows.

If you’d like me to do your hood, please send a pic of the damage to my cell phone.  949-463-7690.  Sorry, I don’t know how to make that a link.  :)
Or if you’d like my advice on some repair, please let me know.

also my email address is

I mainly work in Orange County, California, but also will go to Los Angeles.  I charge around $195 for a car like the one shown, and I do everything on the car that I think I can fix.  Let me know if you have any other questions.


Steve  aka Quinn The Eskimo

Posted in Bumper Scratches & Scrapes, Car Paint Repair, Lease Returns, Peeling paint, Rock chips – paint damage from impacts, Scratches – Keys scratch and light scuffs, Touch up paint, Where should I go? | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Does your hood and front bumper get lots of paint chips from flying rocks?

Paint chip repair…

There are many terms that float around in any industry.  ‘Paint chips’ is one of those terms in my industry.  To me, paint chips are damage on your car caused by rocks or even sand. It’s almost always on the front of the car, although it can happen on the side or even roof.   But there’s always exceptions.  Door edges often get chipped, as well as mirrors.  In contrast, interior decorators and those in the household paint industry often call swatches of paper with different colors on them ‘paint chips’.   I don’t get this, but that’s a different story.

‘Paint chips’ is where the Dr.Colorchip method really excels.  It’s the bucket shape of a chip that makes th

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Bumper scrapes

The thing that I see the most is bumper scrapes, mostly from hitting high curbs. With a push over the years for MPG, manufactures lower the front bumpers closer and closer to the ground.
It takes very little to damage your car – you are in essence, driving your car into the equivalent of sand paper. Depending on how much plastic is removed by your kissing of the curb, you can either have the bumper touched up, or if you’d like it to look new again it would need to be sanded down and resprayed. The cost to respray a bumper is about $250 to $600 depending on where you go.
A mobile bumper guy can do a really good job for $250. It’ll take him an hour or so, and he’ll come to you. A bodyshop will take the bumper off, sanded and down, and then spray it in a clean room (probably with other car panels). Unless the plastic is badly damaged, i.e. a whole in it, or so much plastic scraped away that it can be smoothed out)
Considering that this happens to most bumpers, you’re much better off just getting the bumper touched-up. If it’s close to the ground, its pretty easy to hide with touch-up paint. The higher up, the harder it gets to hide. Also the darker the color, the easier it is to hide.
I would highly recommend using the Dr.Colorchip paint system. If you insist on using the touchup paint from a dealership, make sure you thin out the paint. Pour some in a little paper cup (I use the little cups used for ketchup at fast food restaurants), and then thin it out with acetone. I’d also use a 1/4″ brush from a craft store. Don’t use the brush that comes with the kit (at least not for a bumper scrape).
When you’re applying the paint – think of Tom Sawyer and white washing the fence. You just want to put a ‘wash of color’ over the scrape. Each time you apply, put the paint on a little thicker. Make sure you wait until its dry. If you use to much acetone on the secondary coats, the thinner will wipe away your first coat.
And this is an aside, but I wanted to mention this, because I have a surprising number of people ask me to fix the scrape on their bumper so it won’t rust. I do what I can to make it look better, but it’s never gonna rust. Sorry. I know I’ve broken some key beliefs you’ve had, but plastic doesn’t rust.
When you’re done applying paint it may still look rough, especially if the curb that you kissed was rough. If you were to sand paper it first it would make it much harder to get paint to sit in the scrape, and you’re very likely to damage the surrounding good paint, if you use sandpaper.
If you’ve hit something higher up, like a pole, or a wall edge and the bumper is scraped, it much less effective to use touchup. You make it look different, not better.
It’s very often the case, that what you’ve hit, has simply rubbed off on your car. This is called transfer. Some simple rubbing compound will take it off. DO NOT USE A SCOTCH BRITE PAD FROM THE KITCHEN. The paint surface on your car is very sensitive. It’s made to look pretty – it’s fairly fragile.
I often will spend an hour buffing out an area where someone used their fingernail to scratch off what was simply bug poop.
The point being that even your fingernail will scratch the surface.

I could go on and on about little tips. I think I’ll start adding photos to show you what I did to fix it.

And please, if you’d like advice about your car, please email me at or text them to me at 949/463-7690

See my Yelp for details about what I do.  :)

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Summary of how to fix paint issues

A quick summary of how to get different types of car paint damage fixed.

Pealing paint: All too often the clear coat on a car will weaken and start to peal off. This happens when a car is kept outside much of the time, or if a car is poorly resprayed. It seems to be more frequent on darker colored cars, especially Hondas. I’m guessing that it’s the fact that they get hotter in the sun, and then cool off at night – i.e. the constant and radical change in temperature. The only way to fix this is to have the area sanded down and resprayed. Although I strongly suggest that you don’t bother. By the time this happens on a car, it’s probably aged to the point that its not a good financial decision. I know it’s unsightly, but you probably should either save your money for a new car, or spend money on mechanical issues instead.

Key scratch: This is probably the hardest thing on a car owner, but if you’re reading this, you already know. Sorry. :) As far as fixing it like it was new, it can be really expensive. Each panel that is damaged will need to be sanded down and respray painted. The usual cost is between $250-$350 per panel, so if the scratch is only a foot long but goes from the back door to the front door, the price to fix can double. If the scratch is on a vertical surface it can be done by a mobile repair guy (a bumper guy). If it’s on a horizontal surface like a hood, you’ll need a body shop. The difference is that dust settles in the wet paint on a horizontal surface and will need a clean room to prevent that.

If you want a cheaper fix – a skilled touch-up guy can hide the scratch a little. The darker the color your car, the more effective. A bright silver car is probably not worth the effort. Please never use the touch-up kit from a car dealer for this – it’s going to look much worse. I promise.

Curb scrapes: With today’s push for MPG the front of most cars are very close to the road to improve aerodynamics. This makes a great target for curbs – it’s a battle with your cars paint right in the middle. Paint touch-up is pretty effective here. It’s not going to look new, but unless you get down on your knees to look at your car, you’re probably not going to see it anymore. Although I really don’t like touch-up kits, you can probably do a decent job here.

Dents: There’s hundreds of dent guys out in the world nowadays. If you can’t find one, call your local car dealership and ask the Used Car Manager for his. Don’t go through the dealership to get the work done. They’ll double the price – and you’ll have to go to the dealership. Dent guys are mobile, so he’ll come to your house and charge half of what the dealership will charge. Usually $75 per panel. Not per dent. So if you have three dents in your front door and one in the back door, it’s $150.

If your dent has the metal creased, or it’s on a crease in the design of your car, it’s exponentially more difficult for a dent guy. Always make sure a dent guy has at least 10 years experience. And don’t use someone that works at a car wash. If he’s working there, he’s probably not good enough to go out on his own.

Dings: I’ve been doing this for years and worked on well over 20,000 cars, and I don’t know what constitutes a ‘ding’. lol. I’m guessing it’s a dent with the paint marred – usually caused by shopping carts, and people flinging their car doors open and hitting your car. If it’s dented – handle as above and ask him if he can buff out the marred paint. If the paint is missing, many dent guys have some touchup paint. He’s just going to put a little blob of paint on it, but what can you expect from a dent guy.

Light scratches: First determine if your paint is scratched or if there is ‘transfer’ on your car. Transfer simply means whatever rubbed up against your car, transferred some of its color on to your car. Many times I’ll work on a car that a customer swears the paint is missing. I’ll find bright red scratches on a black car. I instantly know they rubbed up against a red curb or red fire hydrant and its simply the paint from that curb or hydrant. A light rubbing compound or a soapy sponge will take it off. Never ever, EVER, use a Scotch Bright pad. In other words, NEVER! Or a wet paper towel. If its really stubborn you can use acetone, but use very little – just a few drops, with a tshirt cloth. Be patient. As you rub, the acetone will loosen the transfer slowly, and then it’ll come off all at once. If the acetone mars the paint, buff out with a tshirt cloth and car wax.

If it’s not transfer and they are indeed light scratches – use a very gentle rubbing compound, or even car wax if you don’t have anything else and a tshirt cloth, and simply rub out the scratches. You can use a lot of pressure. You might inadvertently mar the finish. Simply polish is out with less pressure, and car wax. Meguires Scratch X works great, and can found at most retail stores like Target and Walmart.

Door edge paint chips: Really easy to fix. You can get decent results with most touch-up kits, but I much prefer Dr.Colorchip from

Paint chips from rocks: Dr.Colorchip is far far and away the best for this. This is exclusively what I use. I’ve worked on some of the most expensive cars in the world. I work for most of the Porsche clubs in my area and travel with them to their larger events. I use Dr.Colorchip and I WOW crowds all over the western U.S.

But again, if you’d like it to look new, you’ll need to have it resprayed. See above for general costs and where to go for which part of your car.

Scrapes from hitting a pole, the side of your garage, etc: I get a lot of these. With the Dr.Colorchip paint I can usually make about an 80-95% difference for very little money. But the above applies if there is severe damage to the plastic of a bumper, or the metal of a car. On that note, if a plastic bumper is cracked or severe misshapen, it’ll need to be replaced, not just resprayed.

Scratches from garage door closing on your car, or back lid opening too high and hitting the garage door: This, for all intents and purposes, is the same as a key scratch. For dark color cars, it can be hidden, but for it to go away completely it needs to be resprayed. If there’s manufacturer emblems on that panel, the cost to fix will go up. They’ll need to be removed before painting, and reapplied when the paint is dry. A mobile tech won’t do that type of work.

NOTE: To keep your garage door from closing on the car, I’d suggest simply raising the safety sensors that are near the floor of your garage and the rail the garage door slides on. Raise them to the level of your bumper.

Headlight fogged: There a lot of products out there. I’ve never tried any. :) I get great results from using a terri-cloth towel, with a dollop of rubbing compound and squirt of acetone, and rub like crazy. The acetone will eat away at the aged plastic. It might look worse when you first start – but see it through to the end.

Dull finish: Wash your car. :) While I’m thinking about it – I should mention that dust is slightly acidic. When a car is dry and dusty, it’s fine, but add a little moisture from a dewy morning or a drizzly rain, and it’ll start to eat away at your finish. If you have to leave your car outside, simply squirting it with a hose once in awhile will help.

Cracked paint: Two causes – a gentle impact, not enough to damage a bumper, but enough to crack the paint of a bumper, or sun damage. For sun damage, try not to look at it anymore. If this is happening to your car, stick it out. It’s not cost effective to fix and your car is probably getting too old to spend money on such things. I see this happening most frequently on black Hondas

If it’s cracked on the bumper, it’s probably from a very gentle ‘bump’. Again, the best solution, try not to look at it. You’ll either need to have it resprayed, or the bumper replaced. Ugh.

Don’t use…
your fingernail to pick off anomalies on your car
Scotch Bright pads on your car or paper towels
a touch-up kit from the dealer. They are awful!!!
and don’t lick your finger and then rub out a spot on your car. It might work, but it’s gross. 😛

Don’t spend money on aesthetics if…
your car has more than 75,000 miles
there are mechanical issues – tires, brakes, etc.
or if you’re hurting for money

If you’d like more specific info, please email a pic of your car to or text it to me at 949/463-7690. Please don’t call. I don’t answer my phone very often. It’s too hard to get anything done if I do.

If you’re in southern California, I can do the work for you.

Please also see my reviews one Just search Quinn The Eskimo.

And be well and happy. :)

Posted in Bumper Scratches & Scrapes, Car Paint Repair, Cracked paint, Dents, Fogged Headlight, Lease Returns, Rock chips – paint damage from impacts, Scratches – Keys scratch and light scuffs, Stains, bird poop, bug poop, battery acid, egg, etc., Touch up paint, Where should I go? | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Where should you go, for which type of damage to your car??

Where should you go, for which type of damage to your car??

Go to the wrong place, and you might as well just open up your wallet and give them what you have, or drive away with your car looking much worse than it did.
From my experience, many people immediately think ‘body shop’ as soon as something happens to your car, or worse, they think ‘car dealership.’
I’ll start with the car dealership. Car dealerships have alliances with body shops, sometimes they are even on the same premises, but are usually different companies. If you take your damaged car their, you are really going to a body shop, but the dealership will mark up the price to make a little profit for themselves.
Bodyshops fix major to moderate damage. Anytime the original form of the metal or plastic is damaged, it most certainly needs a body shop if you want it to look new again. For very light scrapes along a bumper, or less so, with a side panel a mobile ‘bumper guy’ will be fine. In general any vertical surface can be resprayed by a mobile professional. The reason for this is that dust settles on horizontal surfaces. To get a good paint job on a hood for example, it would need to be done in a spray booth to reduce particulates from settling and ruining the newly painted surface. Bumpers don’t have that issue and you can generally get a good paint job. There are exceptions where a bumper would need to be removed and sprayed separately to get a good final paint job.
Also many damaged areas can be ‘spot sprayed’ by a mobile professional. Little scrapes, can be sanded down and resprayed. If you’re going this route, make sure the guy has experience! In general the lighter the color, the harder it is to match. Bright silver is the most difficult. If your spray gun is 6 inches away from the car, versus 18 inches, you’ll get a different color, or if it’s pointed at the car an angle versus straight on, you’ll get a slightly different color. If that happens, your bumper won’t match the fender.
The next smaller issue is very minor scratches, and paint chips. Paint chips are generally on the hood and front bumper and are caused by flying rocks. The next most common place is door edges, mirrors, and chipped paint from other peoples doors and stray shopping carts. A good paint touch up guy can fix most of these issues, but this is no longer an objective practice. Meaning, we (I’m a paint chip technician) only make things look better. If you want it to look new, have it resprayed (which is many times more expensive). We also see a lot of scrapes along bumpers from hitting tall curbs, or scraping the side of your garage as you pull out. This can often be patched up for a fraction of the cost of a bumper respray, but it’s only going to make it less unsightly.
The other area is minor dents. This is also most commonly a mobile service. The price for a dent is about $75. Please make sure your guy has at least 10 years of experience. There’s a lot of people that try to get into this industry to make a fast buck but soon learn that it’s not easy to do without ruining a lot of cars. It is an art. Don’t let some guy working at a car wash do it. If he’s there, it’s because he can’t find work! Find someone at a high end car dealership. That goes for the other vendors. In general, if we aren’t good at what we do, we don’t eat. We make the most money at dealerhips because of the volume, and they don’t tolerate incompetence.
I can go on at length giving you more info, but this should suffice for now. If you have any questions about where you should take your care, please email me a picture of your car at or text me at 949/463-7690. Please refrain from calling. I’m very personable, but get distracted from my work when I have to answer the phone.

ps. Don’t ever use a paint pen!! It’s nothing more than an income stream for the dealership. There’s not real concern for you about how it’ll look on your car!!

Be well and happy.

Steve Bode
aka Quinn The Eskimo
“Life is as you decide – and if this does not seem so, it is you who has decided it so.” SRB

Posted in Bumper Scratches & Scrapes, Car Paint Repair, Lease Returns, Stains, bird poop, bug poop, battery acid, egg, etc., Where should I go? | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Dr. ColorChip to the Rescue!

Dr. ColorChip to the Rescue!

I have repaired over 10,000 cars – from Ferraris to Hyundais, from rare classics to old beaters. I have worked for car museums, car collectors, and for regular car owners who just want to drive a nice-looking vehicle. I love what I do and want to do my best for every customer.

That’s why, when repairing paint chips, I use the Dr. ColorChip system.

I demonstrate the process on   “” YouTube. First, we paint right over the chips. The paint is designed to stick in chips and scratches. It is pre-mixed for your car, per OEM specs, so there’s no guesswork involved in color-matching.

After painting, we use a special solution to remove the excess paint. The solution rubs everything off except for what’s in the chip. No little paint blobs are left on your car. The traditional method would require the use of a toothpick or a very fine brush to dab paint into each little chip, building it up over days or weeks. Then you would have to sand it down and build it back up again. After several weeks, you might have a chip filled. But with the Dr. ColorChip process, I can fill several thousand chips in about an hour to an hour and a half.

The cost of repairing paint chips with Dr. ColorChip is considerably less than having your car repainted, and it does a really beautiful job. I get better results with each chip, because I fill them more completely. I am also more likely to fill more chips, because with this process, I’ll see the very small sand-sized ones. The system works well for dealing with different shaped chips and for the ones caused by things like shopping carts or door dings. The same goes for the awkwardly-placed chips – the ones that happen in the crease in the middle, for example.

I fix everything: chips on the door hood, door edges, mirrors, bumper scrapes, you name it. My fine arts background sets me apart from other paint chip technicians; I understand the nature of paint. And the Dr. ColorChip system enables me to fix scratches a typical person wouldn’t be able to.

Every car is different, and every chip or scratch is different from the one before. I love the feeling that comes when I’ve repaired a car, I can see that it looks great, and I know I’ve done a good job. If you’re in Southern California, stop in and see me with your paint chip needs. If you’re unable to visit me personally, feel free to send me photos of your car’s damage. I can tell you what your options are.

Send photos to my cell phone:  949/463-7690 or email me at

Quinn The Eskimo

Posted in Bumper Scratches & Scrapes, Car Paint Repair, Rock chips – paint damage from impacts, Touch up paint | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Rock Chips and Their Flavors

The open road causes more damage to our vehicles than we would like. Debris gets kicked up by other cars speeding by, and sure enough, small particles, such as rocks and sand, slam their way into the front bumper. All chips can certainly be repaired, but some are an easier task than others.
The easiest chip to repair is a bucket-shaped chip, where the sides are straight up and down into the car, typically caused by a rock hitting the car directly from the front. You can tell for yourself if this is the type of damage on your car, because you’ll see that the edges are lightly scraped in and scraped out. This type of chip takes very well to the Dr. ColorChip system that can be wiped on and off, with just a little finesse.
Although most chips can be repaired using a typical paint chip repair system, there are others that are too big to simply blot with paint. Chips that are the size of the tip of a pencil eraser are definitely pushing it. You’ll only end up wiping the paint back out, if it gets too big. On the other hand, a paint chip repair system works fantastic on sand-size chips. With tens of thousands of chips all over the hood, and especially along the bottom of the facia, a kind of hazing effect is created. Dr. ColorChip can reduce the visibility of sand chips perfectly.
Unfortunately, there is sometimes no point in repairing vehicles in which the drivers are speed freaks. I was at the Porsche Parade in Colorado two years ago working on cars when a guy pulled up in a Porsche GT. He pointed out the rock chips on his car, and just as I was getting excited to work on his $300,000 ride, he essentially told me that any repairs would be undone as soon as he left. He got the chips traveling at about 75 mph, and he sure wasn’t going to be slowing down anytime soon.
There is a clear bra available to those that want speed and protection for their cars. I do a lot of prep work for clear bras, because they are semi-permanent, and chips that are not repaired will be sealed in. A clear bra is basically a clear sticker, and you can have your whole car done, but most people do a partial hood or front bumper area.
Chip repair is also important beyond aesthetics. A chip that doesn’t get the attention it deserves will rust, and then you have a bigger problem. What I will do is clean the chip out with a solution that should stop the rust in its tracks. As long as it is surface rust, I can paint it, keep it from scratching and have your vehicle looking good as new.
Chip repair is an entirely different process than scratch repair. More difficult scrapes will take several applications, and do-it-yourself kits just don’t do your car justice. There are also chips that are large enough to need a re-spray of the panel. It all comes down to a level of expertise. If you aren’t sure how to fix something, don’t risk additional damage. Send me a photo of your car, and I can give you tips on how to fix the problem.

Quinn the Eskimo
Steve Bode
949/463-7690  or

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Take a look at this article I was interviewed for.

The article is about different options to make your car pretty again.  It’s written by

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Process for Scratch Repair

“It’s just a scratch.” That’s how people describe paint damage. Some will even buy a DIY kit, assuming they’ll fill the scratch in with some paint, and it’ll look as good as new. They are so wrong. Repairing scratches is completely different than paint chip repair.

The reason why scratches are so difficult to repair is that the gradation of damage varies. While the edges may only dig into the paint slightly, the middle gets pretty chunked out and then kind of smooth. This means you can’t simply apply the same amount of paint across the whole area. It also means you better know what you’re doing if you don’t want to make the scratch worse, possibly damaging the whole panel.

Like any repair job, before you can get started, you have to assess the damage. Sometimes the paint isn’t actually chipped. What can look like a scratch turns out to be whatever you hit stuck on top of the paint. When this happens, I try first to remove it with a light solvent, which requires special care, or you can damage the finish.

A lot of people make things worse by using a high-speed buffer on a simple scratch, especially on the side where the curves are. For a single scratch, I might hand-buff with an abrasive or a buffing compound so the edges disappear. The middle may still need to be painted, but this makes a scratch less visible. Hand buffing maintains the integrity of the clear coat all the way around, in addition to hiding the scratch. Sometimes, a scratch is shallow enough that if you make the sides look smooth and non-oxidized, you can’t see it anymore.

The rule of thumb most people follow is: if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, then it’s through the clear coat.  But I think this is too general. You can still buff many scratches that you can feel, but you need to know exactly how far you can go. The industry term for sanding through the clear coat is burning. If you do this, you need to re-spray, which involves more than chip repair.

I use two processes for painting, or a combination of both. First, I’ll apply a big blot of paint at one end and use a rubber squeeze to rake it around. After some time in the sun, I’ll use the Dr. ColorChip solution to gently rub off the excess. To get the paint to stay, I take a fine brush and put a very light bead of paint across the top, to cover the scratch that much more. Once the color dries, a clear coat is applied. Painting, along with hand buffing, is where skill and experience most comes into play.

I repair every kind of paint scratch from chips on the door hood to mirrors, bumpers and front scrapes. I also work for car museums and collectors, including the Porsche crowd. After repairing well over 15,000 cars in the past six years, I have to say that good materials are essential to good craftsmanship. So many people come to me with paint bombs after trying one of those systems advertised on infomercials, like the clear pens. If you insist on using a paint system other than Dr. ColorChip, I’ll tell you how to use it best. Better yet, send me a picture of your car and a close up of the scratch, and I’ll advise you on how to fix it.

Posted in Car Paint Repair, Scratches – Keys scratch and light scuffs, Touch up paint | Tagged , , | Leave a comment