Car Paint Chip Repair

I spend much of my time working on cars that have paint blobs, usually from those God awful paint pens that dealerships and auto stores sell. In my opinion it’s really a dirty trick as those pens make your car look far and away worse. I admit I’m a little bias and my standards are vastly higher than most, but 95% of the time the car would be better off without a big blob on a chip.
I can almost always fix paint blobs, then properly fill the remaining rock chips. I’ve worked on well over 4,000 cars in Orange County, San Diego, Los Angeles, and Riverside counties, and have gotten very good at it. Especially, since I’m using the Dr.Colorchip paint system.
So, if you’re tempted to buy one of those paint pens, please throw it in the trash and call me instead. I’ll make your car look fantastic, or I’ll walk you through how to do it yourself.
949/463-7690

And I’ll give anyone that gets me an appointment for a demonstration at a car dealership within driving distance, $100 cash. I have a 95% close rate- so I’m not worried about making the money back.

I worked on 3 Ferrarri’s this week. I love those cars. The first had a pretty deep gouge up the front. A pretty good size stone had skipped its way up the hood. I applied the paint in a bead up the side of the paint damage and dragged a glossy business card across it, spilling it into the paint scar. When I use this technique it’s for doing very high end work. It works really well if you really really watch what you’re doing.
Hold the card close to the car, and very lightly pull the paint into the chip. Then you need to wait a few minutes for the Dr.Colorchip paint to dry. Again, this is for high-end work. I wouldn’t normally bother layering Dr.Colorchip Paint – but when you want to make it perfect, and especially for show cars, it helps to add two or three layers. The key is to thin the paint a little more each time you add a layer of paint. Use acetone to do this. If you don’t thin it out a little, you’ll just take out the paint that you’ve added each time you use the SealAct solution. SealAct is the stuff that removes just the excess paint around your chip. It’s part of the Dr.Colorchip process. Anyway I did this several times. While I was waiting for this to dry, I also worked on my customers Bentley, Hummer, two Porsche 911s, and his MBZ 550SL. This was all before noon. At one o’clock I was due to work on another customers two Ferrari 599s. Both of those cars where about to be clear-bra’d. They had road rash around the wheel wells which is easily and quickly fixed. For cars like that I’ll either apply the paint ‘shoe polish’ method – dipping the paint bottle over my terry cloth and just rubbing it on the car, waiting, then removing with SealAct. Or I put a big ol’ blob of paint at the start of the rash and pull my rubber squeegie across the paint (and paint chips) then remove the excess when it’s dry.
Once in a while I tease my customers when they see me put big huge blobs of paint on their priceless cars. I tell them I’ll done and start to walk off. I have to be careful – I think I’ve cause a few heart attacks. LOL. The beautiful part of this paint system is the there’s no mistakes. Any paint blobs that I’ve put on the car, are very easily removed. I have to be careful with who I joke around with – regardless, I always leave a car looking awesome. I personally work for two car museums, a lot of the high-end dealerships in Orange County California, and most of the high-end car clubs, like Porsche, Corvette, and other classics.
I’m very good at what I do – on that note, I have a Bachelors in Fine Art, and have been painting since I was a wee lad. I owned a printing company and an advertising agency for many years, so I’m not only a professional, but I know color, and I know what looks good, and am only happy when your car looks great!!!!